When people think of meditation, they usually picture someone sitting still. In Konya, a city in central Anatolia, Türkiye, another form has continued for more than 750 years. It is Sema, in which a white-robed practitioner spins repeatedly on the spot, with the right arm extended towards the heavens and the left towards the earth. Although it is often presented in abbreviated form as a tourist performance, it is originally a religious ceremony and spiritual practice of the Mevlevi order.
Konya is the city where Jalāl al-Dīn Rūmī, the 13th-century Persian-language poet and mystic, spent the latter part of his life and was buried. The significance of Konya as a destination for meditation journeys begins with the traces left by this one man.
A spiritual encounter with the wandering dervish Shams of Tabriz
Rumi was born in 1207 in what is now the Vakhsh region of Tajikistan. His family moved west to escape the Mongol invasion, and on 1 May 1228 his father, Baha al-Din Walad, settled in Konya at the invitation of the ruler of Anatolia. Rumi was about 19 at the time.
The event that changed the course of Rumi's life in Konya was his meeting with the wandering dervish Shams of Tabriz on 15 November 1244. The two formed a profound spiritual bond, and Shams suddenly disappeared on 5 December 1248. The prevailing view is that this loss transformed Rumi's worldview and prompted an outpouring of poetry. Rumi died in Konya on 17 December 1273.
Whirling is a ritual of rules and symbolism, not acrobatics
The Mevlevi order was established after Rumi's death by his son, Sultan Walad, and his followers. It was during this process that Sema, the practice of whirling to music, became established as a form of spiritual discipline. The whirling is a ritual governed by rules and symbolism, not an acrobatic display. Its posture embodies the idea that the right hand is open to receive from the heavens, while the left is lowered to pass it on to the earth.
In 2005, UNESCO recognised the Mevlevi Sema ceremony as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. 2007 was proclaimed the 'International Year of Rumi' to mark the 800th anniversary of his birth.
A ceremony structured in seven stages
Sema is not an improvised dance but a ceremony structured in seven stages.
The ceremony begins with the hymn 'Naat-i Sharif', honouring the Prophet. The sound of the kettledrum, kudüm, then rings out, symbolising the command of creation, before an improvised performance, the 'taksim', on the reed flute ney shifts the atmosphere. This is followed by three circular processions known as the 'Sultan Walad Devr-i'. The three circuits are interpreted as three stages: knowledge known through reason, knowledge confirmed through intuition, and knowledge in which one becomes truth itself.
The central part is the whirling, made up of four 'sেলams'. The first selam is the point at which one recognises oneself as a created being; the second is a moment of awe before God; the third is where that awe becomes love; and the fourth is the process of returning from that state to the world. The ceremony closes with Quranic recitation, prayer and blessings.
It is striking that the return comes at the end. The structure treats returning to everyday life, rather than remaining in a heightened state, as part of the spiritual practice.
The meanings embodied in the clothing and instruments
The semazen's clothing also carries meaning. Its basic elements are the cylindrical hat, the sikke; the white skirt, the tennure, which spreads out while turning; and the outer cloak worn over it, the hırka.
The central instrument among those providing the music is the reed flute ney. A metaphor in the opening of Rumi's best-known work describes the sound of a reed cut from the reed bed longing for its original home. The ney consequently became a symbol of the human soul. The kudüm provides the rhythm, while instruments including the rebab, bendir, qanun, tanbur and oud are also used.
The space where the ceremony takes place is called a semahane. An invisible axis runs between the red seat known as the 'post', where the sheikh sits, and the entrance, and the rules forbid anyone from stepping on this line. The musicians, known as the mutrib, the whirling semazens and the spectators are arranged within the circle.
The Mevlana Museum beneath the green roof
An ornate mausoleum was built over Rumi's tomb. It is known as the 'Green Tomb' because of its turquoise conical roof. The mausoleum was built with the patronage of Tamar Gurju Khatun, a princess from Georgia. The mausoleum and the former lodge for Mevlevi dervishes now operate as the Mevlana Museum.
The museum is the first destination for many visitors to Konya. Its character is reflected in the way Muslim pilgrims mingle with travellers who come regardless of their religious beliefs. Silence is required inside the burial chamber, and visitors should check the dress code and visiting procedures before arriving.
When can you see Sema?
The main time to see a Sema ceremony is each December. A commemorative event known as 'Şeb-i Arûs', marking the anniversary of Rumi's death, is held in the first half of December at the Mevlâna Cultural Centre. Accommodation in Konya fills up months in advance during this period, so visitors should book early once their dates are fixed.
There are opportunities to see Sema in Konya and Istanbul at other times of year, but the days, times and admission requirements vary according to the organisers. The safest approach is to check notices from the Mevlâna Cultural Centre or Konya's tourist information service for the dates of the visit.
Getting there
Konya station is served by YHT high-speed trains from Ankara and Istanbul. It is the southern terminus of the Polatlı–Konya high-speed railway, and the station was expanded and modernised in 2011. With road links to other tourist destinations including Cappadocia and Antalya, Konya is well placed for adding a day or two to an Anatolian itinerary.
If you want to see Sema, allow time in the evening
Konya itself is not a large city. Half a day centred on the Mevlana Museum and another half-day walking through the old quarters are enough to cover the basic route. Anyone planning to see Sema would be better off allowing an extra day and keeping the evening free.
The chances of seeing the ceremony are highest during Şeb-i Arûs in December, but visitors must also take account of the cold in inland Anatolia in winter and the shortage of accommodation. Spring and autumn, when temperatures are milder, are more comfortable for travelling and walking, but Sema schedules must be checked separately.
It is common to combine Konya with Cappadocia. After travelling overland from Cappadocia, known for its extraordinary rock formations and hot-air balloons, to Konya, visitors can continue smoothly by high-speed train to Ankara or Istanbul.
Between performance and ceremony
There is an important distinction to make when presenting Konya as a meditation destination. Sema is consumed as a tourist product while also continuing as a religious ceremony. A shortened performance and a complete ceremony are different in character. Visitors should find out in advance which form they will see and refrain from taking photographs or applauding when it is being conducted as a ceremony.
For people accustomed to meditating while seated and observing the breath, whirling is an unfamiliar approach. Its aim of maintaining one's centre while the body keeps moving has something in common with walking meditation and dynamic meditation. For 750 years, Konya has shown that meditation need not take only the form of sitting still.